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John and Martha on
Delos (Greece) 1972 When I used to giggle and
whisper with Ruth in Mrs. Murphy's Latin 1 class instead of paying
attention, I never thought I'd ever need Latin, and I certainly didn't
expect to marry an archaeologist and end up crawling in and out of
ancient tombs all over Europe and Asia Minor. However, that is exactly
what happened! John, who received his Ph.D.
in Classical Archaeology from Harvard, specialized in ancient Roman
studies. As a result of his research, we lived in Rome for several
wonderful years and later in Florence, and every summer we excavated
ancient Roman sites, some on land and others underwater. To make myself
useful on these digs, I took up scuba diving (in Gloucester), learned
to use an underwater air-lift (in Italy), and was trained to catalogue
and restore ancient pottery for museum exhibits (in Italy). I also
researched ancient Roman ceramics for publication. During this stage of
my life, I worked on a bronze-age site in Cyprus and at several ancient
Roman sites in Italy, both underwater and on land, including Cosa,
Populonia, and Pyrgi. I have so many stories to tell; here is just one:
At the harbor site of Populonia in 1973, the Italian divers would not
buddy with me underwater because I was a female. (Few Italian women
worked underwater in the '70s.) However, eventually they had to, and
slowly, I gained their trust. Then on the last day of the dig, each one
came up to me underwater and shook my hand in acceptance. That was a
great day! Martha in Jordan,
1991 Martha in Jordan,
1991 Family in a Bedouin
tent, Jordan, 1992 Sheik and his sons
eating mansef, Jordan, 1992 During this period in Jordan I
had some amazing experiences and want to share just a few of them. For
example, every summer we were invited to the local Bedouin Sheik
landowner's tent for mansef (goat) and cardamom tea. The tents are made
of camel and goat hair and are enclosed on three sides, open on one,
and pitched so that they catch the desert breeze. We reclined on
cushions and oriental carpets in the men's quarters, drinking cardamom
tea out of silver cups, while the Sheik discussed business with my
husband (how many men from each tribe would he hire, what was the pay,
etc.). Because my husband was the mudir (director), the Sheik always
offered him the goat's eyeballs and then proceeded to help me pull off
the goat meat with his tobacco stained fingers. After dinner, I'd go
into the women's quarters to admire the babies and hand out little
gifts. Bedouin hospitality is unparalled, and eating dinner with an
extended tribal family is a rich experience. Martha sailing a
felucca, Aswan, Egypt, 1992 Riding my bike near
the aqueduct, Caesarea, Israel, 1995 Working in the desert also
created some hair-raising experiences as well. One time I became quite
lost in the Southern Jordanian desert. I was supposed to be following
along on an escarpment in a 4 wheel drive SUV while John used a GPS
receiver to measure a 25-kilometer ground level aqueduct. Somehow I got
mixed up with my directions and lost him and my way. At one point I
thought I was going to have to hail a passing bedouin on his donkey to
give me shelter in his tent for the night. Thank goodness John knew to
climb a nearby jebel and spotted my red SUV down in the desert going
nowhere. It was a happy ending as he came to my rescue. Another time I
scooped up a bag of pottery shards only to discover an entanglement of
pit vipers underneath. I'm still saying my thank-you prayers over that
one! Here I am posing as
Venus de Milo on a Latin inscribed statue base, Jordan, 1996 John and I have two grown
children: our son Olaf is 34, our daughter Patience is 30 and our new
grandson Benjamin is 3 weeks old. We all have dual citizenship. My
Mother and my two brothers and their families are all well and living
in Florida. My Dad died in 1998. The family in Maui,
2004. Son Olaf, daughter Patience, Martha and John. Martha and John in
Italy, 2005 Martha in a pub in
Oxford, England, 2008 If you've stayed with my story
to this point, you might wonder why we stayed so long in Victoria.
Well, we live on the tip of Vancouver Island and look out over Haro
Strait at the American San Juan Islands and Mt. Baker in Washington
State. We watch pods of Orca whales go by, sea lions fighting over
salmon and eagles swooping around. The air is crisp and clean. We have
a sturdy aluminum Silver Streak boat (built here in Sooke, BC) with a
cuddy cabin and kitchen, and we spend some of our happiest days on this
boat, swimming and diving off it and exploring the many American and
Canadian Islands in the area. One of my favorite things to do is to
swim off the boat in 52 degree water, wrap myself in kelp and think how
much better this is than going to a spa and having it all synthetically
replicated! Martha and John on
their boat named Pequod Our boat, Pequod,
anchored in one of the many beautiful coves around Vancouver Island
Both my husband and I love
Canada, its political philosophy and the life. We travel a lot. I've
been diving on the Great Barrier Reef in Australia and in the Red Sea.
I have wandered the Roman remains at Palmyra in Syria, and I've been to
Italy more times than I can count. We have many Jordanian and Israeli
friends and have worked in both places. Living outside the United
States has given me a healthy perspective of other cultures. This is the view
looking out toward Mt. Baker in Washington State, with
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4/3/09 |